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Best ever lost recipes11/19/2023 ![]() “Foreign is not bad – only different, and sometimes apparently worth cooking, since they give us the recipe.” There is food which is ‘ours’ and food that is ‘foreign,’” Barjamovic said. “There is a notion of ‘cuisine’ in these 4,000-year-old texts. He equates this to the present-day ubiquity of “foreign” dishes like lasagne or skyr or hummus that have been taken out of their homeland and adapted to new palates, and are indicative of contact between neighbouring cultures. Elamite broth (“mu elamutum”), on the other hand, is among two foreign (or “Zukanda”) dishes listed in the tablets, Barjamovic said. Pashrutum, for example, is a soup one might serve someone suffering from a cold, Lassen said, though the meaning of this bland broth accented by leek, coriander and onion flavours translates as “unwinding”. The four dishes culled from the list-style tablet also each have unique uses. What the researchers revealed shows, in part, the evolution of a lamb stew that is still prevalent in Iraq, hand-in-hand with a glimpse back in time at the “haute cuisine of Mesopotamia” that highlights the sophistication of 4,000-year-old chefs, said Agnete Lassen, associate curator of the Yale Babylonian Collection. By looking at the material parameters, we can zoom in on what it is” – in most cases, a stew, Sorensen said. ![]() “This idea that we can be guided by what works – if it’s too liquidy, it’s going to be a soup. The food scientists used what they know about human tastes, preparation essentials that don’t drastically change over time, and what they hypothesised might be correct ingredient proportions to come up with their best guess as to the closest approximation of an authentic recipe. There is a science there that is the same today as it was 4,000 years ago,” Jurado Gonzalez said. From a physics point of view, the process is the same. ![]() “All of the food materials today and 4,000 years ago are the same: a piece of meat is basically a piece of meat. “They’re not very informative recipes – maybe four lines long – so you are making a lot of assumptions,” said Pia Sorensen, a Harvard University food chemist who worked, along with Harvard Science and Cooking Fellow Patricia Jurado Gonzalez, on perfecting the proportions of ingredients using a scientific approach of hypothesis, controls and variables. ![]() The challenge was to peel back the layers of history while also maintaining authenticity amid the limitations of modern ingredients. Of the older three tablets, the most intact is more of a listing of ingredients that amounts to 25 recipes of stews and broths the other two, containing an additional 10-plus recipes, go further in depth with cooking instructions and presentation suggestions, but those are broken and therefore not as legible. All of the tablets are from the Mesopotamian region, which includes Babylon and Assyria – what is today the regions of Iraq south of Baghdad and north of Baghdad, including parts of Syria and Turkey. Three of Yale’s tablets date to around 1730BC, and a fourth is from about 1,000 years later. Barjamovic, a Harvard University Assyriology expert, retranslated the tablets and put together the interdisciplinary team tasked with bringing the recipes back to life. “It’s like trying to reconstruct a song a single note can make all the difference,” said Gojko Barjamovic, pointing to the paperback-sized tablets under glass at the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History. It’s a sort of culinary archaeology that uses tablets from Yale University’s Babylonian Collection to gain a deeper understanding of that culture through the lens of taste. Instead, a team of international scholars versed in culinary history, food chemistry and cuneiform (the Babylonian system of writing first developed by the ancient Sumerians of Mesopotamia) have been working to recreate this dish and three others from the world’s oldest-known recipes. You crush and add leek and garlic.” But it’s impossible to ask the chef to reveal the missing pieces: This recipe’s writer has been dead for some 4,000 years. You add fine-grained salt, dried barley cakes, onion, Persian shallot, and milk. The instructions for lamb stew read more like a list of ingredients than a bona fide recipe: “Meat is used. (This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites.
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